Tongkonan Toraja (Traditional House of Toraja)

Tongkonan Toraja is the most noticeable thing about Toraja. Tana Toraja is one of the little places in Indonesia where traditional structures still being built until present, other than for the benefit of tourists. The most distinctive feature of the toraja houses is their saddle shaped roofs, with each end shooting high into the sky.

Legend ties the shape of the roofs to the origins of the Torajans. Their tradition is that they originated in the mountains of present-day Vietnam. Thousands of years ago, they began a voyage southward. After a couple of years island hopping south, they came to Sulwesi. They made their way by boat up the Sa'dan River as far as present day city of Enrekang, then continued to follow the river on foot to their present valley home. They bought their boats with them, and hung them between trees for shelter. From the shape of the boat supposedly comes the shape of the elaborate Torajan roofs, to remind them of their roots.

The roofs are made of pieces of arm-length sticks of bamboo split in half and stacked in an interlocking style very similar to terra cotta tile roofs the world over. Modern houses may have sheet-metal roofs, but they maintain the same shape, and even use carved wood panels on the under-side to mimic the shape of the traditional bamboo.
Traditional Village
The detailed designs painted on a rice barn.


Tongkonan houses always face north. The interior typically has just three rooms. In the center is the largest room, used as the living area. To the south is the room where the family sleeps, and keeps any dead they haven't buried yet. A small room at the north end is usually reserved for guests. The floors of the north and south rooms is usually slightly higher than the floor of the main room.

The exterior walls are made of wood panels. These are always etched and painted. Most of the patterns are geometric designs, although representations of people, animals and other objects can also be seen. You'll note throughout Tana Toraja that only four colors are used to decorate houses: Black, white, red and yellow. The colors represent, in essence, death or darkness, holy purity, blood and wisdom. The north end of the house will usually have a carved buffalo head on it as well. The pole supporting the north end of the roof may also have a row of buffalo horns affixed to it. This is taken as a sign of wealth.

Facing each tongkonan house will be one or more rice barns, built in the same basic shape but much smaller. Like the houses, the rice barn is raised well off the ground to keep the rice free from damp. The poles supporting the rice barn are kept very smooth to keep away rats and other climbing vermin. As with the houses, the outside walls of the rice barns are engraved and painted. The rice barns can be pre-fabricated off-site and bought to the site by pick-up. There are workshops near the woodworkers village of Ke'te Kesu where you can see rice barns being built. You can even order one to go!

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distinctive food and beverage in tana toraja, Indonesia

Tana Toraja has its own distinctive foods, just like many regions of Indonesia. However, the foods of Toraja are a little more different than most, due mainly to the fact that the vast majority of them are Christian. So, you have such delicacies as a braised pork blackened by a special spice found only in Toraja, washed down with some palm wine. Other delicacies include meat (usually chicken) cooked in bamboo and coffee.
Unfortunately, there are very few restaurants outside of hotels in Tana Toraja. There are stalls and small roadside eateries catering mostly to locals, but these are generally only for the 'hygienically adventurous', as one guidebook author puts it. The one restaurant that seems to serve local foods to foreigners is Celebes, located a little north of Rantepao. ....Read More...

How uniqueThe Burial Traditiion of Tana Toraja

The Toraja Tribe of South Sulawesi, Indonesia, is known for the cheerful way of treating death, and its unique burial grounds carved in sheer rock.

There are plenty of tourist destinations area in Indonesia. One of them, and the most beautiful tourist destinations of Indonesia, the green hills of South Sulawesi are home to the Highland of Toraja, a tribe that still honors the old Austronesian lifestyle. Most people in Tana Toraja are Christians, converted during Dutch colonization, but traces of their old beliefs still remain and are most visible during funeral festivities and burial customs. The Toraja are obsessed with death, but not in a tragic sense; to them, funerals are a lot like going-away parties celebrated by sacrificing dozens of buffaloes and pigs for a feast enjoyed by the entire community.

The main concern of a Toraja tribe member is to make sure he raises enough money so the family can held a big funeral ceremony, when one of the family leaves this world. Their bodies are stored under the family home for years after their death. During this time the remaining relatives refer to that person not as “the deceased” but as “the sick”, and raise money for the actual funeral, which is usually attended by hundreds of guests. Tourists are welcome to attend the festivities, as long as they don’t wear black or red.

While churches dot the Toraja countryside, tribe members are rarely buried in the ground. They are either placed in tombs dug into nearby cliffs, or in wooden coffins hanging on the side of mountains. Lemo, one of the most popular burial sites in the area, looks like a big piece of rock Swiss cheese, with holes carved to fit coffins and balconies for the “tau tau” – life-size wooden effigies representing the deceased. In the old days, effigies only showed the deceased’s gender, but now master carvers try to make them look like the actual person. After the body has been placed in its rock tomb, the dead’s effigy is placed along others, in a carved balcony, so his spirit can watch over his descendants. Unfortunately, so many tau tau effigies have been stolen to be sold to tourists that people have started to keep them in their house.

At Ke’te’ kesu’, the dead are not placed in cliff-dug graves, but in wooden caskets hanging from the side of cliffs. The coffins are beautifully decorated with geometrical shapes, but over time the wood begins to rot and the bleached bones of the deceased often exposed. Some Toraja members are so resourceful that they pack the bones of several family members into a single coffin, which eventually causes the sustaining poles to break under the weight. But, judging by the piles of wood and bones at the bottom of the suspended burial ground, this doesn’t seem to bother anyone.

The smallest of the Toraja burial grounds are the “Baby Trees” where the tribe’s young are placed. If a child dies before he has started teething, its mother wraps his body in cloth, makes a another hole in the Baby Tree and places the dead infant inside. The hole is then sealed and as the tree begins to heal, the child is believed to be absorbed.

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